Front Wheel. Place the crankcase upon a block of wood to support the machine, and allow the wheel to clear the ground with the fork fully extended.

Disconnect the cable shackle from the cam lever and screw the adjuster (Illustration, page 6), out of the boss on the brake plate, or alternatively remove the handlebar brake lever pivot pin, slide off the lever and detach the clip from the mudguard so as to allow the cable assembly to come away with the wheel.

Remove the spindle nut and washer from the right-hand (brake) side, slacken the spindle clamp bolt in the left-hand fork end. Support the wheel and tap the spindle out from right to left. The spindle will probably have to be followed up with a drift to get it clear. Pull out the wheel.

The fork sliders are assembled so that when the spindle is in place they keep the springs secure in their mountings, and they will spring over a little to the right as the wheel comes away.

Refitting Front Wheel. Push the wheel up between the fork sliders and engage the slot in the brake plate over the anchor pin in the right-hand fork end. Thread the spindle through the split collar in the left-hand fork end, through the wheel hollow spindle and right-hand fork end. Fit the spindle washer and nut and tighten fully. Lift the machine off the supporting block and with it standing on its wheels straddle it and bounce the front end up and down several times to line up the fork. When satisfied that the fork is free tighten the spindle clamp bolt. Refit the brake cable and re-adjust the brake.

Removal of Rear Wheel. To remove the inner tube only for repair there is no need to take out the wheel as removal of the wheel spindle, and disconnection of the speed­ometer drive will allow space for removal through the gap left by the spindle distance piece. The machine must of course be supported on the central stand and all weight taken off the wheel before the spindle is removed.

To take out the wheel first remove the rear mudguard extension by unbolting it from the mudguard and disconnect the flexible speedometer drive at the hub.

Working through the holes in the hub spoke flange, take off the three wheel nuts. Screw out the hub spindle and pull it out ; catching the distance piece as it falls free. Remove the wheel.

Refitting the Rear Wheel. Fit the wheel over the wheel studs and screw on the wheel nuts to hold it in place loosely. Make sure that the speedometer reduction gearbox is located properly over the driving slots in the end of the hub. Hold the distance piece in place between the fork end and reduction gearbox and thread the spindle through the fork-end, distance piece, and hollow spindle finally screwing it into the brake drum support bolt.

Tighten the spindle fully, tighten the wheel nuts, and con­nect up the speedometer drive. Refit the mudguard extension.

Note.—After about twenty miles running check and if necessary tighten the three wheel nuts, which occasionally bed down after a wheel has been refitted. Never lower the machine so that its weight is on the rear wheel, unless the wheel spindle is in place and tight.